NEWS > 12 March 2025

Fragrance Trends, Production Technologies, and Input Innovations

“Fragrance, like art and popular culture, conveys society’s underlying belief systems.” Miranda Gordon, Chief Creative Marketing Officer at Punk Champagne, also believes that it is the privilege and responsibility of fragrance creators “to interpret the organic evolution of culture and to express it in the brand positionings and olfactive stories that we tell.” Gordon was previously a long-time VP of Marketing, Fine Fragrance at legacy fragrance and flavor design company MANE; and Punk Champagne (where she now works) is a New York City – based multisensory marketing and revenue growth consultancy specialized in fragrance, luxury brands, and technology.

If Gordan is right and fragrance is an interpretation of societal beliefs, then perhaps the technologies and innovations along the scent supply chain similarly reflect the industry’s belief in the value of digital progress, in environmental sustainability, and in fragrance applications that are simultaneously artful and beneficial. 
 

Input Innovations across Regions, Molecules, and Biologies

Regionally specific fragrance inputs are remarkably evocative and help showcase what’s unique about a place, it’s climates, microclimates, and biodiversity. And ambitious brands are sharing the sensibilities of countries and cultures with consumers around the world. Jasmine from Egypt, ginger frim Nigeria, orange blossom from Tunisia, Atlas cedar from Morocco and Algeria, buchu leaf oil from South Africa, and black pepper and vanilla and ylang-ylang oil from Madagascar—this is just a partial list of the fine fragrance inputs that go into perfumes made by Sent of Africa. The Ghana-based fragrance house launched in 2015, then, refreshed its brand and relaunched to the market three years ago. The brand’s perfumes and packaging are all manufactured in Ghana; and the entire Sent of Africa value chain is fully within Africa, from fragrance development, branding, design, etc. Scent of Africa is “sharing the artistry of uniquely African native ingredients in fine fragrance,” explains Aba Gyepi-Garbrah, a Certified Aromatherapist and Olfactive Designer (who owns the US-based DTC botanical, aromatic skincare brand Aba Love Apothecary). It’s an important mission and one that the company hopes will reach well beyond the Continent. 

According to an item published on AfricaFashionTour.com this past July, Scent of Africa Managing Director and Founder Tanal Ghandour is currently focused on consumer markets throughout Africa but has every intention of growing the fragrance house to be a globally recognized African luxury brand.
 
Abalove
 
When I asked Gyepi-Garbrah about distinctive fragrance inputs she’s seeing in the marketplace, she also brought my attention to the modern Korean perfumery brand ELOREA. This New York City – based brand makes fine fragrance as well as home fragrance and scented hand care (hand wash and hand lotion). Founded in 2020 by Su min Park and Wonny Lee, ELOREA crafts scents with ingredients from Korea, such as pine, green tea, perilla leaf, and soy.
Botanicals, like those mentioned above which are sourced from Korea and countries in Africa have been used as inputs throughout history and likely will continue to be sought-after scent inputs for the foreseeable future. As fragrance science advances, however, novel molecules seem to be as inspiring as botanicals. 
 
“Molecular perfumery is a specialized field that uses principles of chemistry and molecular biology to create innovative and unique fragrances,” explains Verónica Espadas, Technical Area Director of Mixer & Pack, a contract manufacturing company based in Spain and specialized in the design, development, and production of perfumes and cosmetics.
“Unlike traditional perfumery, which relies on natural and synthetic ingredients to develop aromas, molecular perfumery,” she tells me, “delves into the microscopic world of aroma molecules to design completely new fragrances.” And Espadas believes that this technology can change what is possible aromatically and what is possible in the realm of sustainability: “By reducing dependence on natural ingredients,” she says, “molecular perfumery can contribute to the conservation of natural resources and the protection of the environment.”
In terms of actual fragrance inputs, molecular tech is responsible for synthesized compounds like calone and azurone. These are molecules, as Espadas reminds us, that “not only imitate the feeling of freshness and lightness of the sea, but also evoke the atmosphere of a beach. In this way, aquatic and transparent notes are created, with nuances that vary from saline to slightly floral, providing an olfactory experience that transports you to a maritime landscape.”
And Espadas assures me that molecular perfumery does not take the perfumer, the nose, or the intuition out of fragrance blending. It is, she says, “a balanced combination of science and art.”
“Science,” she says, “allows us to develop new molecules with specific properties, but the creativity of the perfumer is key to combining them harmoniously.”
 
Gordon sees tremendous potential in molecular perfumery, particularly AI-supported molecular fragrance innovation. “I’m wildly enthusiastic about the use of AI to iterate the design of molecules and predict their olfactive profile,” she says; adding that the “work being done by Osmo brings warp speed to olfactive development and to potential replacement of molecules that have been censored from the palette.”
Osmo was established in 2023 with backing from Lux Capital and Google Ventures. The New York City -based company specializes in digital olfaction and makes use of disciplines such as machine learning, data science, psychophysics, olfactory neuroscience, electrical engineering, and chemistry.
In early March of this year (2025), Osmo launched its own AI-powered fragrance house called Generation. Or rather, Generation is powered by OI, what the team at Osmo calls Olfactory Intelligence, “a technology that turns data into scent,” according to a press release about the new fragrance house. Glossine (a floral similar to jasmine), Fractaline (a violet or citrus-ginger scent depending on the blend), and Quasarine (a jasmine-like scent said to suggest celestial light) are the first three fragrance molecules or ingredients from Osmo.
“We developed olfactory intelligence to give brands more intuitive, data-driven, and creative ways to design fragrances,” says Alex Wiltschko, Founder and CEO of Osmo, in this month’s press release about the launch of Generation. “This isn’t just about making the process faster, but also smarter and more expressive to help brands create extraordinary products that resonate with consumers, comply with shifting regulations, and stand out in a crowded market.”
 
Fragrance inputs produced using biotech, sometimes described as biosynthetic inputs, are also quite compelling in the current marketplace. And while biotech fragrance inputs overlap with molecular perfumery, not all molecular fragrance is produced with biotechnology.
When asked about biotechnology in fragrance, Gyepi-Garbrah mentioned Abel Perfume, a brand that creates its natural perfumes with fermentation-based biotech ingredients. This brand is very much educating consumers on the advantages of biotechnology. Site content explains that biotech fragrance molecules are long-lasting, have a more precise and consistent aromas than conventional inputs do, and are readily scalable where similar ingredients sourced by other means may be scarce.    
 
It’s a marketing strategy that is not without merit. “I’m also excited about biosynthetic ingredients,” says Gordon. “What interests me is not so much the molecule itself—vanillin smells the same whether you isolate it from vanilla beans, ponderosa pine bark, petroleum, or cow poop, or you print it digitally—but the how. Biosynthetic ingredients,” she emphasizes, “make powerful marketing stories, and consumers care.”

Sustainability Strategies and Digital Technologies in Fragrance Production

Adam Tasi is the Owner and General Manager of Netherlands-based Scent the Brand, a company founded in 2019 that does contract manufacturing for the home fragrance sector, as well as fine fragrance and perfume sampling, and strategic scent marketing. In a recent interview, I asked Tasi about what’s new and next in fragrance sampling; and he went immediately to the market demand for environmentally sustainable options. “The most important development,” he says, “is the rapid move to eco-conscious fragrance sampling solutions and environment friendly home fragrance products.” To this end, Scent the Brand uses close to no plastic for fragrance sampling. “We have developed alternative fragrance carriers made from, for example, potato starch or natural minerals. Only our lift-up perfume sampling booklet contains a minimum amount of recycled special plastic to close in the perfume,” explains Tasi.  The company is similarly focused on sustainability efforts with its fine fragrance marketing activities. “Fragrance sampling has to be easy, luxurious and eco-conscious on a large scale,” he says, describing one of the company’s marketing solutions as “a bio-based fragrance sachet…made from leftover material from tomato plants and recycled FSC paper. The fragrance carriers are 100% natural minerals.” Additionally, the company’s factory in The Netherlands is approaching zero-waste. 

When it comes to digital technologies in the fragrance production space, whether they are online platforms for B2B customer service; artificial intelligence, robotics, or automation to increase efficiency; or mixed reality for team training, all of the experts I interviewed were adamant about the fact that tech supports the work of humans and creates new opportunities for collaboration and innovation.
 As Abdullah Z. Çelik, CEO and President of FROMA (a fragrance and flavor house based in Istanbul, Turkey) explains it, “a company’s primary motivation to automate is to increase productivity and that usually comes not by replacing humans with machines but rather by augmenting machines with humans”—a statement which reminds us that even the most sophisticated technologies benefits from, and commonly require, human input.    
At FROMA facilities, the team uses volumetric and hybrid automation for the purposes of speed, repeatability, reliability, and traceability. And Çelik tells me that the company has “several plans to incorporate [further] automated technologies for our fragrance production facility.”
 
Froma
 
Back in Spain, “at Mixer & Pack, we have integrated artificial intelligence systems into our packaging lines to identify product defects that were previously undetectable to the human eye. This artificial vision system interconnects packaging lines, improving efficiency and ensuring excellence in quality,” says Espadas.
That company also takes advantage of mixed reality to train “technicians in complex processes without interrupting production. These technologies,” explains Espadas, “reduce the margin of error, accelerate fragrance development and improve operational efficiency in perfume manufacturing.”
In 2021, intrapreneur Alfonso Alvarez-Prieto (a business development specialist with a background in mathematics and engineering) founded Scentmate by dsm-firmenich as an online interface to better support indie brand leaders and beauty entrepreneurs. The AI-enabled fragrance platform steps users through the process of creating a brief and then acts as a space for collaboration as the fragrance is developed. Scentmate support carries customers through to the sample phase as well as ordering and fulfillment. 
 
B2B fragrance customers seem to be ready for this sort of digital support and are reportedly quite pleased with it, as Alvarez-Prieto, who continues to lead Scentmate as General Manager, tells me. “Our users appreciate the speed, flexibility, and simplicity of our model. Instead of navigating the traditional, often complex fragrance development process, they can now brief, receive samples, and order their fragrance in a matter of weeks. But what they value most is the step-by-step guidance,” he says.
Scentmate plans to further develop the platform, “enhance user experience, introduce more innovative features, and provide even greater support for our customers' creative processes. Our commitment,” says Alvarez-Prieto, “is to remain at the forefront of fragrance innovation, ensuring that our customers have the best tools and resources.”
 
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Scent & Fragrance Trend Spotting ahead of Cosmopack 2025

While no written article can replace the vibrant and valuable experience of discovery, learning, and relationship building that takes place in-person each year at Cosmopack, what follows will help get you started before this year’s exhibition opens on March 20.

Wellbeing looks to be the top trend influencing fragrance in 2025, if the expert insights that I gathered for this article are any indication. When asked about scented personal care, Gordon told me that the trend of “whole body wellness and the mind-body connection continues, with opportunities emerging in the in-between spaces, the overlaps between disciplines, such as neurocosmetics and psychodermatology. Consumers’ biggest wellness concerns,” she says, “include sleep, mood, and immunity.”
 At Cosmopack, FROMA Fragrances & Flavors will be showing a new collection of personal care products with “scents [that] were designed around chocolate and coffee, answering our desire for comfort,” Çelik tells me. The collection is inspired by the Pantone color of the year, which promises to “capture the global zeitgeist,” as the designs services company’s website explains. 
Leatrice Eiseman, Executive Director Pantone Color Institute reflects on the soft brown shade of 2025 this way: “Underpinned by our desire for every day pleasures, PANTONE 17-1230 Mocha Mousse expresses a level of thoughtful indulgence. Sophisticated and lush, yet at the same time an unpretentious classic…Mocha Mousse extends our perceptions of the browns from being humble and grounded to embrace aspirational and luxe.”
Accordingly, the team at FROMA translates this color and mood into personal care. “Mocha Mousse scents are so versatile they can adapt to any category; from shower products to reed diffusers, and even aerosol,” says Çelik. “They were inspired by life's little pleasures, to stimulate our senses and take us to sweet memories; whether it is applied on our bodies or diffused in the air.” It’s not exactly color therapy or aromatherapy, but it is an artful way to integrate color, fragrance, and feelings.
 
Neurocosmetic ingredient technologies are of great interest in the skincare category. And scented products with what Gyepi-Garbrah calls the “skin-emotion connection” are bringing fragrance and wellness together in remarkable ways. “I am seeing scent-forward brands convey pointed perspectives of scent formulations that promote mood-boosting and wellness inspired formulas. It reinforces the power of scent and the ability of users to create moments of reconnection with themselves.”
And she shares these examples in the brands space: “In skincare, Neurae seems to be standing out as a brand generating buzz around their formulas based on aromachology [the formal study of the impact scent has on emotion and behavior] and plant-based oil complexes to support the skin-emotion connection. CAP Beauty also has the wonderfully thoughtful Serotoner toner, highlighting the combination of rose water, neroli, clary sage oils and griffonia—an ingredient thought to be the precursor to serotonin.”
Scentmate’s Alvarez-Prieto promises that Cosmopack “visitors will experience firsthand how scent can enhance well-being and create deeper emotional connections.” The company will show not only its namesake AI platform but also the EMOTIONS fragrance technology from dsm-firmenich along with fragrance tech that lends itself to multifunctional product applications: “New Joint Concepts, which combine scent with active ingredients for personal care,” and a solution called LockScent™ “for long-lasting fragrance in rinse-off haircare.”
 
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The Future and Fringes of All Things Fragrance

For the past 100 years, perfume has been a very his-and-hers product category. And it wasn’t until the mid 1990’s, when Calvin Klein launched CK One as a unisex scent, that the concept of gender-neutral fragrances began to reemerge. Yet still today, there is a sizable opportunity to create fragrances that are less stereotypical or fully androgynous, according to Gordon. “There’s wonderful directional creativity happening in alternatives to gendered fragrances,” she says, “but the market’s money hasn’t caught up to the artists and visionaries yet.” “Despite the rise of brand- and consumer-generated chatter around genderless fragrances, 99% of fine fragrance sales remain anchored in scents that not only perform conventional gender roles but successfully do so in increasingly exaggerated, almost campy interpretations of femininity and masculinity,” she tells me, going on to explain that this approach to perfume may seem safe insofar as it follows familiar practices and may reduce business risk but that at the same time it limits innovation and ignores changing consumer attitudes and expectations. 

On the whole, she sees fragrance makers creating “fluffy, dainty, sweet and yummy florals [that] are positioned as feminine, pink, blushing, and princessy.  On the other end of the gender spectrum, what still sells is feeling like a man, smelling like a champion, driving a fast car (or boat or motorcycle), drinking bourbon and making fire.”
As a veteran industry expert and author of Gendered Fragrance Experiences, which will be published in The Handbook of Men’s Fashion (Intellect Press, 2025), Gordon assures us that “what happens on the fringes of niche fragrance will eventually move to the center.” 
Her commentary encourages fragrance suppliers and brands to embrace genderless scents; and it also reminds us that it’s well worth the effort to seek out truly niche and novel concepts, inputs, and product formats.
 
 
And there is no better place to this than at Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna. This year’s trade show opens on March 20 in Bologna, Italy, and will feature over 3,000 exhibitors from around the world. 
Learn more and get your ticket
 
 
 

Author: Deanna Utroske
In collaboration with:

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